FD or RD for a one-year goal?
If the money is needed in about a year, choose between parking a lump sum in an FD or building it month by month with an RD - then run both calculators before you lock the tenure.
Use an FD when the cash is already in hand. Use an RD when you still need a monthly habit to reach the same date.
A one-year goal is an awkward length. It is too soon for most equity SIPs to feel comfortable, and too long to leave a large sum in a current account earning almost nothing. That is why Indian savers reach for fixed deposits and recurring deposits: known tenure, known rate, and a maturity date you can circle on a calendar.
The product is not the first decision. The first decision is whether the money exists today. If it does, an FD usually puts more of it to work from day one. If it does not, an RD is a forced march toward the same date - with less interest than parking the full amount immediately, because the principal arrives in instalments.
Choose FD when the lump sum is already sitting idle
A bonus, a matured deposit, or money you have already saved for a wedding, gadget, insurance premium or travel fund can go into an FD for 12 months. You get a quoted rate, a maturity date, and (on a cumulative FD) compounding during the term. Confirm premature-withdrawal rules before you lock it. A goal that might move forward by three months does not love a penalty.
Run the FD calculator with the bank's compounding (often quarterly in India) rather than a simple-interest guess. Senior-citizen rates, if they apply, belong in the rate field - not in a generic chart from last year.
Choose RD when you will save from monthly income
An RD is for people who do not have the lump sum yet and want the bank to pull a fixed amount every month. It is a SIP's conservative cousin: no market units, a declared rate, and a maturity you can plan around. Missed instalments and premature closure still have bank-specific rules, so read the deposit advice, not only the marketing banner.
Use the RD calculator to see how a monthly amount grows over 12 months at the rate on offer. Then ask a blunt question: could you live with that debit on a tight month? If the answer is no, shrink the RD. A smaller completed RD beats a large one you break in month seven.
A simple way to compare without overthinking
Suppose you need roughly ₹1,20,000 in a year. If you already have it, an FD for 12 months at your bank's rate shows a known maturity. If you will save ₹10,000 a month instead, the RD builds principal gradually, so interest earned over the same calendar year is usually lower than parking the full amount on day one. That is not a defect. It is the cost of not having the lump sum yet.
Do not mix this up with a long-term wealth SIP. If the goal is ten years away, read the SIP checklist and SIP vs lumpsum. For the product mechanics of deposits, the FD vs RD guide stays next to the calculators.
Project FD maturity with bank-style compounding.
Open FD calculatorWhat to confirm before you lock it
Check tenure, compounding, payout versus cumulative, TDS, and what happens if you break the deposit early. After tax, some short FDs barely beat a savings account - still useful for discipline, less exciting as a "return". Keep emergency money accessible even if you also run an RD or FD. A one-year goal fund is not an emergency fund if you cannot touch it without a penalty.
These calculators are educational estimates. Confirm the final numbers on the bank advice slip.